A Wild Vista

Among the great joys of trekking in the backcountry of New Zealand, is that one can, through some effort (and what the man in the street would consider totally uncalled for privations), become intimately acquainted with a primeval and at times breathtakingly beautiful landscape.

Of course, such grandeur can be admired at well-known stop-offs on the tourist trail, such as Milford Sound. Who could fail to be impressed by the sight of Mitre Peak, one of the highest sea cliffs in the world, soaring over a mile skyward from the shore? Think how much more mesmerising it’d be if you’d had to trek for three days through virgin temperate rainforest to get there, fording rivers, scrambling over slips, making route-finding decisions. And if that was the only access, you’d pretty much have it to yourself.

Of course, Milford Sound is in fact a tourist honeypot, and while it may seem churlish to whine about the heaving crowds taking a little of the shine off the place, there’s no doubt that they do. Those with that yearning to climb and explore will soon be tracing possible routes up the shimmering ridge on the far side of the Sound, letting their imaginations run wild as to what lies just out of sight, beyond the peak.

Now, climbing Mitre Peak is quite a serious proposition — well out of my league anyway. But the scope for somewhat easier (if not easy) expeditions that have the capacity to reward with unforgettable situations, is vast. Consider the picture below. We (that is, myself and my friend Chris), pretty much stumbled across this scene, 4½ days into a 7-day trek based around the Young and Wilkin valleys in Aspiring National Park.

Disappearing Tarn, Wilkin North Branch, Aspiring, New Zealand.

Not surprisingly, there was no one else about. You have to commit yourself to 5 days in the backcountry to get here (2½ days in; 2½ back out). That means carrying a minimum of 5 days’ food. This isn’t completely wild land — there are a network of marked tracks and routes, and comfortable backcountry huts for shelter. New Zealand’s backcountry hut network is a wonderful resource, and one that I’ll surely be writing more about.

Huts and track markers don’t make trekking here a piece of cake though. Some experience (and hence acquired skill) when it comes to river crossings — including having the nouse to know when not to cross — is very valuable. The NZ Department of Conservation’s notes on the Wilkin Valley Tracks indicate that the “track is mostly unformed with steep, rough or muddy sections” and that “moderate to high level backcountry skills and experience, including navigation and survival skills are required”. Which is probably fair enough.

Adding another layer of excitement to this trip (and another potential barrier to the wonders that lie within) is the Makarora River. This typical NZ braided river has to be crossed at the start and end of the trip, lying as it does, between Makarora Township, and the mountains to the west (though you can choose to charter a jet boat if the river’s too high to cross safely).

I hope to return to Disappearing Tarn someday. Perhaps as a preamble to the Wilkin/East Matukituki traverse — another route on my ever lengthening “to-do” list…