A Wild Vista

Here’s the third and final post (for now), in this chronologically challenged series of diary extracts, written in December 2002 when I was in the deep south of South America, starting the circuit of Torres del Paine.

Day one was a fairly gentle introduction with, as it happens, the worst weather of the trip. Overhearing many other travellers’ tales, it seems we were incredibly lucky, experiencing a great deal of dry, calm weather.

Anyway, onto the diary…

4th December 2002 — Setting Off on the Torres Circuit

Up quite early today, for the first day of the Paine circuit. A week’s trekking lies ahead of us! Had a pretty shitty breakfast, got everything packed up, and struck camp. My rucksac wasn’t ridiculously heavy, which I was pleasantly surprised by, and glad of. It’s still going to take some getting used to though! The good weather is holding for now, though it is quite windy.

The track left via the Refugio, and worked its way up and down hill through lovely countryside — a mixture of open plain, and wooded areas. Loads of birdlife. After a flat section, we reached Campamento Seron, a fairly basic campsite, but staffed, and with a small shop, shower and toilets. Bought a bottle of coke here, and we stopped for lunch. The forecast for tomorrow wasn’t clear, but it seemed that things may not be getting any better. We left Seron after 40 minutes or so, and continued on our way.

There was a short, sharp climb around a spur, and then we had our first views round the back of the massif. We could see some spectacular mountains in the distance, and a view of the lake (at the end of which is tonight’s campsite — Coiron). It got much windier at this point, with some rain in the air, but it was still fairly pleasant walking.

Not long after lunch, and the rain and wind starts.

I was surprised by how far it was before we finally got to Coiron, but we got there eventually! This is a very basic campsite (consisting in its entirety of a sign — “Campamento Coiron”), which is great as far as I’m concerned. A beautiful spot to camp, overlooked by spectacular mountains. We found some vaguely flat ground for the tents, pitched, and prepared tea. I finished all my pasta, unbelievably; must be working hard! Had a fairly early night.

Follow these links for day 2 and day 3 of the diary.