A Wild Vista

The date referred to in the title is December 4th 2002, and the conclusion of a diary entry. I won’t be drawn on subsequent exploits and how they compare to this sojourn in Patagonia, but, as per yesterday’s post, looking back on this elicits strong memories of a very happy time.

Yes, it’s another diary entry, and in direct contravention of how these blog thingummies are supposed to work (allowing, of course, for the fact that I’m already 2602 days late publishing) this post concerns the day prior to that covered by yesterday’s offering. Or something.

Anyhoo… one day into “The Circuit” in Patagonia’s Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, and my four trekking companions and I are setting ourselves up for an eyeful of icefall.

4th December 2002 — Meadows, forests and an ice-fall…

Up at a reasonable hour today. There’s been considerable discussion as to whether we should do a “half-day” (as far as Refugio Lago Dickson — only 3 hours’ walk from here), or continue on as far as Los Perros (another four hours) for a full day’s trekking.

Breakfast was cooked with minimal faff, but I was the last to be ready after we’d struck camp. Martin then had some problems with his rucksac, which entailed some waiting about. The other three carried on in front, as far as the first river. This first section today comprised sections of undulating open ground, interspersed with forested stretches — very pleasant trekking.

Second day — Campamento Coiron to Lago Dickson/Los Perros

It was only 5 minutes from camp that we had a tricky’ish river crossing, and there was at least one other tricky crossing before Lago Dickson. I really got into taking macro photos of the wild flowers this morning.

Wildflowers on the Torres Circuit (I'd be very grateful if some kind soul reading this could help me identify them!)

I suspect that bending down and getting back up again with the big rucksac probably led me to pull a muscle in my thigh. This didn’t happen suddenly, but came on gradually. This was very worrying, as it felt very much like the lateral ligament problem I’ve had before with my knee, which would leave me completely shafted as far as this trek goes (only a day-and-a-half into a week-long trip). In spite of this (or perhaps, belligerently, because of it), I pushed on quite hard after catching up with the others, and gradually left them behind.

The terrain grew more undulating, and gradually rounded a spur that was hiding the Refugio. The final approach was along a low ridge, and then steeply down some scree onto the plain on which the Refugio sat. I collapsed at the door to the main building — very glad to get my boots and pack off — then headed inside to buy a coke. It was about another 15 minutes before the others turned up — I’m definitely walking too fast! We sat around outside the hut for quite a while, eating lunch, and pretty much decided to carry on to Los Perros today.

The route from Refugio Lago Dickson was excellent, pretty much from the start. Most of it was through lovely forest. This seemed pretty wild, following a contorted track that was often blocked by fallen trees. There were also a few “interesting” river crossings! At about the half-way point to Los Perros, there was a fairly impressive cascade.

By the time we reached the foot of the morraines below Los Perros, we were all pretty knackered. A distinctly dodgy looking bridge saw us safely across the main river draining Lago Perros, and then it was onward and upward over the morraines.

This bridge had seen better days...

At the top of the final slope of choss, a wonderful sight was revealed — a rich reward for a hard day’s trekking. The Glacier Perros plunged down in an icefall, into the small lake just below us, which was filled with icebergs.

Icefall at Lago Perros.

From here, it was but a 10-minute walk across flattish ground to the Los Perros campsite. This was in the woods, and not quite what I was expecting, but better than it at first appeared, with toilets, a “shop” and a cooking shelter. Bought some beers (after putting the tents up) and cooked tea. Then headed to bed after a long, but excellent day. Definitely the best single day’s trekking I’ve done, to date!

Follow these links for day 1 and day 3 of the diary.